HOW TO COMPARE CABINETRY: 5 SIMPLE STEPS

01

Categorize the Product

Cabinets fall into three broad categories: stock, semi-custom, and luxury. Moving up the line adds price, but also gives you more door styles, colors, and options. Lead times also increase. There are many manufacturers producing good work across all three categories, so an unfamiliar brand name is not automatically a concern.

02

Check the Finish

Run your fingers over the flat and curved surfaces of the doors and check whether the inside corners are smooth. Sanding is time-consuming, so it is a reliable indicator of quality. Look at the finish clarity; a good finish enhances the natural beauty of the wood rather than clouding it.

03

Review the Materials

Solid wood costs more than engineered wood products, and thicker is generally better. A solid wood drawer box is preferable to particle board. A shelf that is 3/4 inch thick is stronger than one at 1/2 inch. Metal is stronger than plastic in hardware. Look closely at the drawer slides. Do they feel solid and move smoothly? A hidden hinge typically costs more than one that is visible from the outside.

MDF Note

Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), Furniture Board, and Fiberboard are common in cabinet construction. MDF is stable and resists warping. Particle board is less dense and generally used for shelving. Both are less expensive than plywood or solid wood, which is why they are widely used. Knowing which product is in the cabinet helps you understand what you are paying for.

04

Determine the Construction Method

There are many ways to build a cabinet box, and construction method matters. A simple box might be glued together; adding staples makes it stronger. Slotting pieces to accept one another is better still. You may see words like rabbet, dowel, dado, or dovetail; these describe how pieces are joined in higher-quality products.

05

Compare Apples to Apples

Cherry is typically more expensive than oak. A mitered frame door can cost more than a square one. Many cabinet lines offer accessories as upgrades: roll-out shelves, spice racks, appliance panels, and moldings. A proposal that leaves these out may look less expensive while actually being a worse deal. Make sure every bid you compare is built on the same specifications before you decide.

FAQ

Check the finish, materials, hardware, and construction. Run your fingers over the doors and inside corners to feel for smooth sanding, and look for a clear finish that brings out the wood's natural beauty. Solid wood drawer boxes, 3/4-inch shelves, metal hardware, and drawer slides that feel solid and move smoothly are all signs of quality. Ask how the cabinet pieces are joined. Methods such as dado, dowel, rabbet, and dovetail are stronger than a box that is only glued or stapled.

Not necessarily. MDF is stable and resists warping, while other engineered wood products can help keep costs down. The key is knowing which materials are used and where, such as in the doors, cabinet boxes, drawers, or shelves. Compare the materials and their thickness across cabinet lines to better understand what you are paying for.

Make sure each quote includes the same specifications: cabinet category, wood species or material, door style, finish, hardware, and accessories. For example, cherry is typically more expensive than oak, and a mitered door can cost more than a square one. Roll-out shelves, spice racks, appliance panels, and moldings may cost extra, so a lower quote could simply leave out features included elsewhere. Confirm what each proposal covers for design and installation, too. The Cabinets Plus design team at our Palatine, IL showroom can help you understand the differences between products and proposals.